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Vanessa's Lunch Box

Another Tamiya re-release of a 1987 model.
This 2 wheel drive "big wheels" vehicle is meant for recreation. It bounces all over the playground, trajectories are, hum, special and steering is approximative. A soon as you push throttle, the front wheels raise: wheeling on several meters (if it doesn't roll on its roof). Full speed cornering is pure suicide as it will roll. A worse behavior is still to invent: but that is the concept of this model, and what makes it success over ages. Apart from its tremendous look.

Vanessa's family

The Lunch Box and its twin brother Midnight Pumpkin are among the best commercial successes from Tamiya. These two vehicles are based onto an older model (with some differences though).

58044 Mitsubishi Pajero

58063 Vanessa's Lunch Box

58070 Midnight Pumpkin

The two "big wheels" models were recently re-issued: a "normal" version for the Lunch Box, then a "Metallic" one for the Pumpkin and later a "Gold" edition for the Lunch Box. The Pajero was not re-released: at least, not with that chassis (there is a Pajero on the trial XC chassis) an not with that bodyshell either.

58347 Lunch Box

58365 Midnight Pumpkin Chrome Metallic

49459 Lunch Box gold Edition

As a matter of fact, the reference to Vanessa in the official name of the re-released Lunch Box disappeared. But still, she's part of the sticker set. Anyway, the great question remains: but who is Vanessa?

About my Lunch Box, it is a second hand model: I will just check it and full ball race it. Note that the rear drive train is identical to the Hornet's. The bodyshell had a hard time already (well, normal for a second hand, especially for this model that often end on its roof): I may try to restore it a little bit. I will run with that body as well as with the provided lexan one (well, provided when I bought it: it is not included in the kit). The decoration for the lexan one will be very different as soon as I have time to do it. A third bodyshell should arrive soon: it is brand new and will have a different color scheme.

Photos when it arrived:

Custom changes

I made a few changes on the chassis upon advices from Tamiyosho and CactusZeBest from the Vintage-RC forum:
I placed rubber spacers on the front and rear damper axles. They don't hit brutally the chassis anymore when the suspension extends. These spacers are just cut parts from a brand new motor axle protection.
I inverted the front and rear damper bodies: rear one are longer, so when you put them on the front drive train, the spring becomes harder and the chassis stands up correctly. So front tires naturally stand on the ground and no longer on their internal side. Adding a spacer on the spring makes it also harder.
I installed spacers on the front and rear spring axles to avoid the wheels touch the bodyshell when dampers are pressed.
I added a 100 grams weight on the front drivetrain to limit the wheeling effect (because I don't have the wheelie bar yet). I removed it as soon as I got it.

Now, the results with photos:

  
The sequel: the rubber tube used for damper spacers, the front damper spacer and weight, damper body inversion, spacers.

And now, the final result:

  

This model weakness are the bodyshell mounts that do not appreciate rolls. The ABS bodyshell is heavy and rigid: any shock will transmit to the body mounts. After I broke several of them, I changed the body mounts with the idea of Razowski, a member of the Vintage-RC forum. Anyway, I had no choice as 3 body mounts over 4 were broken and I had no spares left .

The idea is to fix angled pieces on the chassis to replace to body mounts, then to use velcro on them and on the inside of the bodyshell.

 

While modifying the body mounts, I noticed that the chassis could fold upon efforts when suspension works. So I thought about a bar that would stiffen it to avoid breakage. This modification can be seen very often on this chassis, but they generally use the hydraulic dampers mounts to fit it. This original suspension system does not allow to fit this bar the usual way but thanks to my custom body mounts I could do it. As far as I know, it's the first time this mod is made keeping the original suspension system.

The assembly: The angled metal piece is screw to the chassis by a single screw (the closest to the angle). Then, by the bottom, I inserted another screw in the second hole. The bar itself is a tie rod with damper ends fitted at each extremity. Then I used a damper spacer inside the damper ends. These spacers will leave room between the angled metal piece and the damper ends. A round spacer is then placed on the top to tighten the damper ends before to screw other damper end to maintain it all. I know it seem complex to do (and to explain!), but it is fairly simple to do it: at most, it took me half an hour to finish it. Once the bodyshell is on, you can't see anything. This modification is very efficient as the chassis is really stiffen when suspension work, even if they work brutally.

When checking the rear drive train, I discovered the axle springs were broken. Their job is to damper the gearbox when it oscillates. Another weakness for which there are 3 solutions (apart from replacing them).
First: to make axle spring from clothes pin spring. I'm not sure about this one as the spring is very hard and could block the movement of the gearbox.
Second: to insert foam where the axle springs are located. Not sure either because you need to glue the foam and the better you glue it, the less movement it allows.
Third: to install a third damper on the rear drive train. The goal is to enhance the way the gearbox oscillates.

I used a friction damper from the Blackfoot Xtreme. I installed it head down because the damper body was touching the chassis. The spring is the softest I could find and I placed the biggest spacer available.

I used a brass tube to separate the damper from the chassis (so the damper doesn't hit the chassis, and is still able to move). On the other side (inside the chassis), a nut maintains it (you can see the nut behind the radio receiver). to fix the lower part of the damper, you have to disassemble the rear drive train (there's no other way to do it). Then remove what is left from the axle springs and remove the metal bar which is the rear drive train axle. Then, you have to cut right in the middle of the gearbox on the reinforcement joint (use a jigsaw or a dremel) so that the damper basis head can insert into it and be maintained by the drive train axle bar when you put it back. Now you just need to reassemble it all and test it at the next run.

The third damper mod is very efficient: the rear drive train doesn't bounce as much as before. The overall suspension is smoother and the truck doesn't bounce all around at jump landings. The traction control is also greatly improved but all this doesn't change the great amount of fun the Lunch Box provides.

Some photos

When you drive a Lunch Box, it is wise to do it on a wide place. Say good bye to neat trajectories, Vanessa does what she wants and the pilot does what he can. Driving on grip surfaces (like asphalt) is not very funny as you have to control permanently the truck power. But on short grass (very short, like on golf practice), ground and especially sand, the Lunch Box provides tons of fun both for the driver and for spectators. Be prepared for some laughts.

 

More photos on the gallery.

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First publication: april 14, 2008 Last modified: august 05, 2009

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