Suzuki Swift Super 1600

This time, I claim I'm not responsible for this: my friends Boo54, J-F and Teamneogordini are guilty!
Lately, we had an on-road run even I generally prefer off-roading or rallying with my Ford Focus WRC. Problem is we are currently searching for a new place to run off-road since the previous place is no longer good at anything. So, we met for a cool afternoon of tarmac driving. I came with my Citroën Xsara WRC and my Lancia Delta HF prepared for on-road.

Everything went perfect but my friends are smart: these rascals gave me an M-chassis for a try. I never considered this chassis class before as I considered them boring mini skateboards only suitable for fans of the famous Austin Mini. Well, let me tell you they're nothing better than mini skateboards... but terribly fun to drive. Fun, really fun to drive: they're very light, sharp cornering, quick and they litterally stick to the tarmac.

Result is I had a great fun and that you're reading the consequence of this try. My advice: never try an M-chassis! And don't trust yours friends

The M-Chassis family

In 2006, the Suzuki Swift Super 1600 inaugurated the M-03M chassis that can only be found on one other model released in 2009.

58368 - Suzuki Swift Super 1600

58427 - Fiat 500

But this chassis already existed in slightly different versions. The basis is the 1999 M-03 chassis that was lately declined in M-03L (2000) and M-03M (2006). Letters refer to the chassis length, more exactly the wheelbase (distance between front and rear wheels). These 3 dimensions are meant to adapt different bodyshells on the chassis: for realism and respect of the original dimensions when reduced to the 1/10th scale, Tamiya makes the chassis wheelbase vary. All lenghts are not available for every M-chassis generation, but they always respect the same wheelbase values.
"short" version (no letter): 210 mm
"medium" version (M): 225 mm
"long" version (L): 239 mm

The M-chassis series is not new in Tamiya product range since it first appeared back in 1994 with the M-01. The saga continues in 2009 with the release of the M-05. Apart from changing the chassis wheelbase, Tamiya also swapped between front and rear wheel drive. To make it simple, an even numbered chassis is front wheel driven and an odd numbered chassis is rear wheel driven. So we should see Tamiya releasing a front wheel drive M-06 chassis within the next months.

Photo gallery of the M-chassis saga by generation:

     M-01's (1994-1997)

58149 Rover Mini Cooper (M-01)

58163 Rover Mini Cooper Rally (M-01)

58196 Honda S-MX Lowdown (M-01M)

     M-02's (1995-1997)

58158 Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR (M-02)	58168 Alpine A110 (M-02)	58173 Volkswagen Beetle (M-02L)	58175 Honda S800 Racing (M-02)	58180 Mazda Eunos Roadster (M-02M)
58187 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA (M-02M)	58197 Porsche Boxster (M-02L)	58202 Mercedes-Benz SLK (M-02L)	58208 Porsche 911 Carrera (M-02L)

     M-03's (1998-2009)

58211 Rover Mini Cooper Racing (M-03)	58234 Suzuki Wagon R RR (M-03)	58265 Toyota bB (M-03L)	58295 Mini Cooper (M-03L)	58368 Suzuki Swift Super 1600 (M-03M)
58400 Mini Cooper S 2006 (M-03L)	58427 Fiat 500 (M-03M)

     M-04's (1999-2007)

58236 Honda S2000 (M-04L)

58240 BMW "M" Roadster (M-04L)

58307 Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GTA (M-04M)

58325 Eunos Roadster (M-04M)

58383 Volkswagen Beetle (M-04L)

     M-05's (2009- ?)

58438 Mini Cooper Racing (M-05)

58443 M-05 Pro Chassis Kit (M-05 Pro)

The M-chassis now lasts for over 15 years and is still growing. Some models are dressed with famous bodyshells like the Alpine A110, the Fiat Abarth 1000 TCR and of course, Mini and Volkswagen Beetle both original and the later renewed versions. Also note that Tamiya always respected the real transmission drive used by original cars when adpating them to the M-chassis.

There are also two limited M-03 chassis versions: the M-03R and the M-03R Chassis Kit (Blue Plated Version).

49417 - M-03R

84023 - M-03R Chassis Kit (Blue Plated Version)

The M-03R is an M-03 with any available option proposed by Tamiya. The Blue Plated version is the "Fast and Furious" tuning bling version. For those who like.

Please note that the knowledge of the Vintage-RC forum members is the source of most of the information for this M-chassis saga. Thanks mates!

Now it's time to built this Suzuki Swift Super 1600. I'll begin with the bodyshell since I will start assembling the chassis as the different paint coats dry.

The bodyshell

Since I started with my first models, my technics for bodyshells evolved. Nothing revolutionary, just some practical hints:
1st step: clean the bodyshell with washing dishes product
2nd step: cut the bodyshell
3rd step: mask / paint
4th step: remove the protection film
5th step: apply stickers

This is the most logical sequence to follow. Except for the Ford F-150 as you need to apply stcikers that will guide you for masking.
In general, cleaning and cutting the body first is better since you won't harm the fresh paint. to cut it, the best is to use a cutter knife to draw the lines where to cut. Then just fold the lexan until it breaks right on the cutting line: you can only do this on straight line like the sides bottom. Everywhere else, still after marking the cutting lines with the cutter knife, just start cutting with cisors and then tear the lexan: it will naturally tear along the cutting line.

Next step is masking, especially the windows, and then paint:

Inside the bodyshell after painting

Side view

Front view

Yep, everything's there There's just no need to mask anything on this bodyshell since the windows stickers are provided. For those of you who really want "real" windows, just use the stickers as mask models.

On these photos, the body doesn't look great since the protection film is still on. Only remove it when the paint is completly dry as it will be useful to avoid scratches while the paint is drying (since you probably let your bodyshell dry on its roof). Now just apply the stickers to finsih the bodyshell. This model needs two full decals sets to be completed (fortunately, they are pre-cut).

Front view with the first sticker set	Front side view with the first sticker set
Front view with all the stickers	Front side view with all the stickers

The bodyshell is almost finished: for the moment, I left the rear wing and the mirrors apart since they are on the part trees. Applying stickers is not difficult since everything is pre-cut. Some are tricky to apply because they are either pretty big or need to be very well adjusted next to others. Completing the decoration requires at least 2 full hours beacause this car is just full of sponsors.

For decoration, I chose the one for Per-Gunnar "P-G" Andersson's car, one of the two official drivers of the Suzuki Swift Super 1600. Tamiya also provides the set for Guy Wilks's car but I prefered the Swedish driver: I thought he would be more gifted than a British driver used to drive on the wrong side of the road
My driving skills being what they are, my cars sometimes tend to drive by themselves: any help from the real driver is much appreciated in such conditions . Though, I'm still waiting for Sébastien Loeb to drive my Citroën Xsara WRC...

To fit the mirrors and the rear wing, you need to drill holes in the bodyshell. That's pretty odd since the bodyshell already comes with 5 holes for the body mounts and the antenna pipe. Tamiya could have drilled the additional 4 holes while making the others: well, they didn't. The holes need to be 4mm for mirrors and 6.5mm for the rear wing: the best is to drill with the thinnest bit to begin and then finish with the one you need for each hole diameter.

Assembling the chassis

This step doesn't require much time and it quite easy thanks to the self-explaining Tamiya manual. The 8 type 1050 ball bearings are provided but 2 type 850 bearings and 4 type 1150 plastic bearing need to be replaced by real ball bearings. Please note that the 1050 ball bearings are specific to the rims mounted on this car: other M-chassis may require 1150 ball bearings. So be careful not to mix them with the 1150 ball bearings that take place into the gearbox (if there's some play then it's not the correct bearing).

One step to perform with care is the gearbox assembly: do not over tighten the screws or the gears will not move freely. Just screw until the screw naturally stops.

About the wheels, sponges are provided and help the tires keep their shape for on-road use. The manual says to glue them into the tires: I didin't follow this advice since I doubt the sponge can move once the tire is mounted on the rim. But don't forget to glue the tires to the rims.

After a couple of hours, this is the result:

This chassis is totally stock, including the motor. I only completed the ball bearing set (2 type 850 and 4 type 1150), and replaced the friction dampers with hydraulic ones I had in my spare parts stock. As usual, I added "o-rings" on the body mounts to preserve scratch on the inner side of the bodyshell. I know they are just useless: the hours spent on this bodysheel will get ruined at the first corner I'll get too fast

Another hop-up is the 53056 pin type wheel adapter: this is a "comfort" option I mount on every model. Plastic hex found on part trees quickly wore and always remain stucked into the rims. Metal adapters are more solid and changing wheels is much easier.

The chassis allows 3 different motor pinions: 16, 18 et 20T. The latest is the only one provided, and that's great. Smaller pinions let you mount better motors but the Mabuchi 540 with the 20T pinion is enough to run this very light model and give it a very decent top speed.

There is not much room left on this chassis to store cable extra length, but compared to the Dark Impact, there's more than enough. Just place the electronic speed controler close to the motor and then place the receiver slightly to the rear end of the chassis. Then you will have room enought to cable-tie everything.

Once the chassis is finished and the stick pack is in, you will notice that most of the weight concentrates on the forst third of the chassis length. This is normal since this chassis is front wheel drive and needs as much weight as possible on the front to get the best grip. As a consequence, forget jumps with it: this is an on-road chassis. But the risk is that the rear drivetrain may easily loose grip in corners as it is very light: be prepared for memorable roll-overs

While I was gathering information to write this page, I read dozens of forum pages giving tons of advices for M-chassis setup, hop-ups and other hints. When compiling them, I soon realized I couldn't trust that material: just about anti-roll bars, I should have installed them at the front and rear drivetrains, only at the front or only at the rear. Well, anything and everything, you choose. And not only for anti-roll bars: the advice orgy concerned everything else. Finally, I found the Aussie band at RC-Mini.net, and that's the end of the world: forget urban legends and mythomaniacs. The best advice I can give is go visit their site. Their conclusion is rather simple: if you need to install any hop-up on an M-chassis, first hop up the driver, not the car.

Some photos

I quickly took photos while the car is still brand new as I guess the first run will probably leave scars

The next move will be to set a date with my friends Boo54, J-F and Teamneogordini for an M-chassis session...

The real Suzuki Swift Super 1600 in action

Credit: David Farquhar / Suzuki



More photos are on the gallery.

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First publication: july 05, 2009 Last modified: august 05, 2009

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