King Blackfoot

This was a great opportunity, so I offered myself this present! This is the last model of the "Subaru Brat / Frog" chassis lineage, apart from the re-releases.

The Blackfoot family

Blackfoot (58058)

Super Blackfoot (58110)

King Blackfoot (58192)

Blackfoot Xtreme (58312)

The Blackfoot evolution from 1986 to 2003

18 years! The Blackfoot saga started 18 years ago. It is still going on since the last model of the lineage is still in production as per 2008 (the Blackfoot Xtreme). As far as I know, such a lifetime in RC modeling has no equivalent in any other brand catalog. Of course, the model evolved all these years long either to improve conception weaknesses or to keep it up to date.

1986: Blackfoot (58058)
It is based on the Subaru Brat (58038) chassis, uses the Frog (58041) gearbox with different spur gear and motor pinion to handle the big wheels used on the Toyota 4x4 Pick Up Bruiser (58048). A vertical tower was added to the front of the chassis to make room for a better suspension system than on the Subaru Brat / Frog chassis. The bodyshell is the same as the one on the Ford F-150 Ranger XLT (58027) slightly modified and with a different sticker set.

1992: Super Blackfoot (58110)
First evolution of the original model: the chassis remains the same, but all the rear drivetrain is an entirely new design.
On the original model, constraints induced by the big wheels made the hex driveshafts and differential satellites prone to wear, and caused the gearbox metallic side plates to bend. The front shock tower was also weak: it could easily break when the suspension had to work hard.
The Super Blackfoot brings enhancements over its predecessor: the hex driveshafts are replaced by dogbones. The gearbox is a totally new design and the metallic side plates are replaced by solid plastic housings. At the rear, a double wishbone suspension system replaces the original one which means dampers are now mounted vertically. The front shock tower is also modified. Tires are now the spike ones of the Monster Beetle (58060) and will be used for the coming generations.
The bodyshell remains the same as the Blackfoot's except a slightly modified front grill design, different stickers... and absolutely no reference to Ford (no brand sticker, no model reference).

1997: King Blackfoot (58192)
Second evolution of the original model: no major modification on the chassis.
The front suspension system is new with longer arms, a double wishbone suspension and a front shock tower modified again. Trivia: the King Blackfoot is the only one wearing red rims instead of the yellow ones for the rest of the lineage.
The bodyshell is entirely new: still based on a Ford model, it is now the replica of an F-350ci (no more F-150) as per the stickers. Though, the Ford logo doesn't show on the sticker set.

2003: Blackfoot Xtreme (58312)
Third evolution of the original model: the chassis is totally new in the Blackfoot lineage. Fresh new design, it is based on the WR-01 that appeared with the Wild Dagger (58231). The Blackfoot Xtreme remains a specific model on this chassis: unique model to have an ABS bodyshell, to be powered by a single engine and to be 2 wheel rear driven.
The bodyshell is the same as the King Blackfoot's a part from details: a redesigned front grill, and a new set of stickers. It also specifies an F-350ci Ford model but the Ford logo is still missing.

2009? Blackfoot?
Each Blackfoot generation lasted about 5 to 6 years int he Tamiya catalog. The current Blackfoot Xtreme was released back in 2003: so year 2009 should see the release of a new Blackfoot generation. Seeing the chassis currently produced by Tamiya, there are only two options:
- the re-release of the original chassis
- a totally brand new chassis

A re-release doesn't seem very likely since it would mean a come back to the roots wherease the Blackfoot continuously evolved over the years. The use of a currently produced chassis is also unlikely as there are 2 current chassis that could correspond: either the WR-01 (the one of the current Blackfoot Xtreme) or the CR-01. This last one is a crawler chassis, which is absolutely not the Blackfoot market.

So, I personally bet on a new Blackfoot in 2009, based on a brand new chassis! Now wait and see what Tamiya will bring us...

Failed! We're now in 2010 and still no perspective of a new Blackfoot...

My King Blackfoot when it arrived

As said at the beginning, this model is an opportunity found on the Vintage-RC forum. This chassis is in great shape as it is mainly assembled with new parts. Tires, electronics, bodyshell and the stickers are missing.

What is missing is no problem: the bodyshell is the same as my Blackfoot Xtreme's except a few details in case I would like to dress it like a King Blackfoot. I also have spare tires and electronics.

Anyway, this chassis is actually meant to wear my second Monster Beetle bodyshell and its wheels. My 1st Monster Beetle will softly run with its cute body, and the King Blackfoot will seriously run with the spare one.

Here are the photos of what I received and a quick setup to get an overview of the complete chassis. Then, with the Blackfoot Xtreme's body placed on the chassis:

Parts as arrived

Chassis overview

With the Blackfoot Xtreme's body on

The chassis is complete and was delivered with bonus items: ball bearings, 2 Mabuchi/Johnson 540 motors and 1 Kyosho Mega motor (22 turns). I will test these motors: if the Kyosho still performs OK, I will probably mount it on this King Blackfoot. Anyway, this model will probably get better than a "simple" 540.

The plan is also to change the friction dampers with my Monster Beetle #2 yellow hydraulic dampers if they fit. For the wheels, I'll have to check how I can fit its rims to the King Blackfoot hex drives. Of course, I will also entirely strip the chassis down to fit ball bearings all around and see how I can fit the bodyshell.

The chassis

I reviewed the entire chassis: everything is OK, juste a few screws to change.
The next step was to strip down the gearbox to fully ballrace it (12 type 1150 ball bearings for the whole chassis). The evolution compared to the original Blackfoot or the Monster Beetle is obvious: it really looks robust.
The chassis frame is almost strictly identical to the orignal's, including some fixation holes that are no longer used. For example those used to fix the steering servo metallic protection plate from under the chassis. Well, I know that since I did fix that plate I had in my spare parts.

Concerning the wheels, I decided not to use my Monster Beetle #2 golden rims to preserve them (they are aslmost brand new). I didn't want to use the brand new red rims I received with the chassis either. Instead, I digged into my spare parts to find original Blackfoot yellow rims: it is mainly a choice based on the look of the model.
The King Blackfoot was not designed for them though. No problem at the front, but the rear wheel axles length is too short. The hex rims allow a shorter wheelbase than with the 5 point system used on the original Blackfoot. After I digged again into my spare parts, I came up with re-release Frog wheel axles which are longer: problem was solved.

In the end, the chassis is now a little bit wider at the rear compared to the front. The difference is about 5mm on each side and it is almost invisible. Who knows? May be the truck will even be more stable this way .

Now, the damper question. I wanted to mount the yellow hydraulic dampers of my Monster Beetle #2 but I faced an unforseen problem. These damper base is too short but also, the plate that maintains the spring is too big: it touches the upright. I tested with 50520 long damper base even if they are black: they don't touch the upright, but the plate diameter for the spring is to short. Since the yellow hydraulic damper never existed with long base, the only way was to use the lower part of the red friction damper from this King Blackfoot together with the upper part of the yellow ones. Quite an ugly solution. The other solution is to install the hop up damper of that time: the famous 53037 Hi-cap dampers that were provided on the Egress (58079) and which are now very rare and expensive. The other hop up dampers proposed in the manual were already the 50520: they are those I will install as soon as I receive them.

In the meantime, the King Blackfoot red friction dampers are still installed.

The bodyshell

As there was none in what I received, I thought I could use the one from my Monster Beetle #2.

As I said before, the chassis frame is almost the same as the 1986 edition. The result is that the lateral body mounts can fit like a charm. At the front, it is a little bit different as the damper tower is a little bit wider. My King Blackfoot was delivered with an unknwon part that perfectly fit and makes an excellent front body mount. The previous owner certinaly had the same project .

The body mounts

My Monster Beetle #2 body installed

Yes, the motor is pink

On the first photo you can see a plastic bearing on the front body mount. It is meant to place the body at the corect height and avoid the body to shake. I had to find a way to use those damn plastic bearings that I always replace by ball bearings .

I still have to work on the antenna pipe fixation: it is not possible to install the original Monster Beetle antenna support onto the King Blackfoot gearbox. For now, I used a fix that makes the antenna pipe go through the driver window. It works but doesn't look great.

Custom changes

On a Monster Beetle, there are 3 weak points:
the gearbox
the front damper tower
the lateral body mounts

The two firsts points were redesigned on the different Blackfoot generations and should not be a problem anymore on the King Blackfoot. The third is no longer a problem either... unless you used the original Monster Beetle body mounts as I do. It is a good idea to reinforce them, even more as my King Blackfoot will be seriously driven: its motor is a Kyosho Mega Motor de 22 tours (yes, the pink one!).

The Monster Beetle rear body mounts weakness is a twin problem: where the body mounts are screwed onto the chassis on one hand, and the mounts themselves on the other. Efforts on the bodyshell (rollover for example) go onto the mounts pressing them inward the chassis and the movement spreads to reach the chassis.

The solution solution is to secure the space between the two chassis mounts and the two body mounts. It is easy to make: it is the same built you can find on many Lunch Box to reinforce the chassis.

The required parts are the same for both stiffeners, the only difference being the length of the aluminium tube:
4 screws 3x40mm
4 flanged tubes
aluminium tube ø 5mm : 48 mm and 78 mm long
1 damper base

The ø 5mm aluminium tube (external diameter) can be found in any RC plane shop as it is used for wing structures.

Chassis stiffener

Mounts stiffener

Cut the aluminium tube with a saw. I recommend you cut them a little longer that required. Sand paper will help you adjust precisely to the correct length and get a perfect finish.

Then insert the flanged tubes at each aluminium end: they are important. First, they protect the plastic parts the tubes press on. Second, they reduce the inner tube diameter. The screw used are 3mm diameter when the inner tube diameter is 4mm.

On the longest tube, insert the damper base. You'll have to widen the hole to pass the tube through it. Just drill into it with a 5mm bit. Place the damper base right in the middle of the tube.

The next step is to place each tube and to screw the 3x40mm screws. The screw length gives more rigidity to the aluminium tube. You can use a threaded rod instead, mais you won't gain any rigidity: if the aluminium tube should bend, this would mean the force onto the chassis would break everything else.

Here is the complete install of the two stiffeners onto the chassis:

 

The damper base used on the upper aluminium tube lets you add another fix onto the rear damper tower to limit any move of the body mounts. It is a basic fix but it does the job: an epoxy plate, a 3x15mm screw and a nut. The type 850 bronze metal bearing (recycling again) and the little pipe are used to fill space between parts.

The upper stiffener leaves room for a outward movement. You can eliminate it using the original Monster Beetle G1 plastic part. But as it was generally the first part to break on the original chassis, I think it is useless to install it. The remaining movement is very limited though: but if needed, I will try to make an additionnal stiffener for it.

First run

The snow finally came out, so this was a nice time to run the King Blackfoot.
For the driving part, trajectory precision and handling, weather conditions could not lead to any kind of analysis .
Nevermind, for the driving fun, no problem at all: the King Blackfoot is great. The suspension does its job perfectly, smoothly but never leaving the chassis bump the ground. The motor didn't seem in great shape as the power it delivered was somewhat weak for a 22 turns: I bet the T2M Speedster Jr speedo (even rated 19 turns) is guilty for that as it made frequent micro-cuts. Anyway, I planned to replace it by a better one.

The general handling is very good, except for jumps because the King Blackfoot always lands on its rear wheels. Despite of the dampers action, it will always have on of these behaviors: rear bouncing and flip to the front wheels or completly flip rear-way. Depending on speed, it always makes a salto, either front-way or rear-way. That's a good way of testing how solid the body mounts are: no problem. Either landing on its roof and getting back on its wheels, or just lying on its roof like a turtle on its back, the body mounts kept solid. And you can bet that I'm not proud at all of some jump landings .

Some photos when my hands could still operate the camera.

   

Update 03/03/09: The King Blackfoot is great! An afternoon driving on a diffcult terrain and the suspension works like a charm. An afternoon also dedicated to dominate the beast power that behaves like a Lunch Box each time you start full throttle. And of course, it was time to take some air...

   

Bonus: the promotional video of the King Blackfoot when it was released back in 1997 (© Tamiya)


More photos on the gallery.

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First publication: december 11, 2008 Last modified: February 22, 2010

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