Blackfoot Xtreme

It took me a long time to come back into RC models. I was wondering whether to go for 4x4 "big wheels" which are often dual motors for more power, or for 4x2 simpler models. I finally decided to go for a model that is very close to those I was dreaming of so many years ago. So close that this particular model was already existing 20 years ago: from Blackfoot, it evolved into Super Blackfoot, then into King Blackfoot and now into Blackfoot Xtreme. This is the one and only Tamiya model to have remained available in catalog through all these years: an exceptional lifetime that has no equivalent in any other brand catalog.

The Blackfoot family

Blackfoot (58058)	Super Blackfoot (58110)	King Blackfoot (58192)	Blackfoot Xtreme (58312)
Blackfoot III (58498)

You can notice the 3 first models of the series keep using the orginal "The Frog" chassis structure with obvious enhancements on the rear drivetrain, especially the more reliable gearbox. The direct consequence is a modification in the rear suspension as the dampers lost their horizontal implantation. The Blackfoot Xtreme chassis introduces a radical change since it is a TL-01 derivation.

The Blackfoot Xtreme shares its chassis with other models:

Wild Dagger (58231)	Twin Detonator (58309)	Double Blaze (58366)	Dual Hunter (58396)
Mud Blaster II (58514)

The Blackfoot Xtreme is an exception in this family: it's the only one model to feature an ABS bodyshell (lexan for others).

The bodyshell

The bodyshell is made of ABS and has some chrome parts to be fitted (the front grille, the roll bar and the rear bumper). This is a Ford F-350 bodyshell, so the black color is mandatory (Henri Ford said "Any customer can have a car painted any color that he wants so long as it is black..."). In fact, it is the official color scheme chosen by Tamiya for this model: you only need to spray a black layer to give it a perfect finish.

Except that I decided that mine would be painted in a "Lunch Box" yellow. As this color is lighter than black, it will require to spray 3 to 4 layers with sanding between each layer for the next to apply better. Many layers are required because the black color remains visible through the thin paint layers, and adding layers allows to completely hide it. Drying layers time makes this step quite long, but I like the final result. Cutting and applying the stickers also takes time. I did not stick them right away because I wanted to think about adding one more paint layer. In fact, I wanted to start the chassis assembly and to make the truck run as soon as possible. So, while the different paint layers were drying, I started to assemble the chassis.

Chassis assembly

This is a simple operation thanks to a very precise, detailed and illustrated manual. Every part is identified by combining the tree letter and the part number onto the tree. Same thing concerning the screw sets which are clearly identified at scale 1:1 at every step of the assembly. I would say you can not make any mistake unless you rush.

The first steps are to assemble the front and rear drive trains. I replace all the plastic bearings by ball bearings because they have multiple advantages: they reduce the friction (better speed and battery pack autonomy) and they last longer (the plastic tends to wear and adjustments are no longer accurate). This implies to disassemble all the pre-mounted gearbox to change the bearings. For dampers, I decided to stay with the stock friction dampers for the first runs. I may change them for hydraulic dampers later.

The next step is fitting the steering servo into the chassis frame, as well as the electronic speed controller and the switch. Then, it is time to assemble the front and rear drive trains to the chassis frame. At this step of the assembly, the electronics need to be set up, especially the neutral position for the steering servo and the neutral gas position for the electronic speed controller. If you didn't anticipate this step, you will have to wait for the battery pack to charge. Among the latest assembly steps are sorting the cables to tie them on the chassis frame, to assemble the battery pack doors and to assemble the wheels (note tire rotating direction). I do recommend to glue the tires to the rims (even if the manual tells not to) otherwise the rims will spin into the tires and the truck will loose traction.

For fun, it's time to switch everything on and make a little run in the apartment to check up everything works fine. I did go slowly because my driving experience is some 20 years old, and also because the tires leave black rubber prints all over the floor
This quick run made me notice I made a mistake on the steering servo. One screw was not fitted correctly and I had to disassemble most of the chassis to fix it.

The bodyshell painting is now finished and I assembled the chrome parts to fit them onto the chassis: now I can examine it throughout any possible angle to see if I like the result. And yes, I'm pleased with the final result: the bodyshell is very realistic (as usual with Tamiya) and the yellow scheme is exactly what I wanted. However, it is now obvious that the stickers are required because the bodyshell looks nude without them. But as I don't want my truck to look like a advertisement support, I'll give myself a few days reflexion to think about what to do.

 

Custom changes

After the first runs, I made some changes on the chassis to enhance its behavior.

First, I replaced the 4 friction dampers with hydraulic models. The general handling is greatly improved, especially on chaotic fields! The truck doesn't bounce as much and it lands much better on jumps. Then, I replaced the stock Mabuchi 540 with an Orion SV2 Method 27x2. 540 is the size of the motor (can't be changed), 27 is the number of turns for the wires (same as the Mabuchi), and x2 means double wiring (x1 on the Mabuchi). The double wiring brings more throttle to the motor, which is important for this kind of heavy big wheels truck.

I also finished the decoration by placing the definitive stickers on the bodyshell.

Electronics protections

Right back from the first runs, I noticed that the chassis was spread all around with water, mud, sand and pebbles. Just about everywhere on the chassis frame, especially where it is very difficult to clean  So I decided I would design a protection case for the most fragile components: the receiver and the electronic speed controller. The main idea is to fit the electronics into a box, allowing cables to go through but keeping the box waterproof. That's why I decided to make the cables go through the bottom of the box (so the water would have to go up the cables to reach the components). To give you a more precise idea, you can see the result of a wet run on the chassis. Fortunately, no damage occurred despite of the multiple projections spread all over the chassis frame.
The starting point for this protection box is a business card box which dimensions do fit perfectly onto the chassis. I made a first try by placing the components into the box to see where cables had to go through (the speed controller, switch, steering servo and antenna wire). Then I drilled: I had to make several tries because the plastic broke. To reinforce it, I just used scotch tape where I had to drill. I had to drill "big" holes because there are several plugs to pass through, the biggest part being the switch itself.
After drilling, I glued the remaining plastic parts of my previous tries to fill the holes by the bottom of the box. The speed controller and the receiver were then taped into the box using double sided tape. This assembly has to be done when the box is fitted onto the chassis otherwise you will have to disassemble the steering servo which is just lost deep inside the chassis frame. Finally, I filled any remaining hole with silicon both from the inside and from the outside of the box. I used silicon meant for bathroom joints.

The box cover just needs some cuts to let the antenna wire out of the box, and then to cable tie the whole protection onto the chassis frame. The following photos show the final result:

This protection does its job perfectly. However, the truck is not fully waterproofed so don't try to make it run into a river. First, this is not a boat, and second, the steering servo can't be water protected (this is a moving part, and I couldn't find how to protect it without bothering the rotation movement). The top of the box can be removed in summer: the electronic components may heat up and it would be wise to remove the cover to let them breathe.

On the last above photo, I used a piece of panties maintained by cable ties to prevent pebbles to go inside the motor. It is far from being beautiful but it is very efficient and it does let the motor evacuate heat.

More than a year after, the review

I drove this model a lot, and it experienced many of my "new beginner" pilot mistakes. Furthermore, I drove it sometimes hard on diffcult surfaces and I made many jumps with it.
The bodyshell: this is the element that suffered most. The light ramp on the rear of the cabin is cracked because of not "state of the art" landings, and the overall bodyshell has impacts. But not even one crack.
The chassis: not a single problem to report. Even if its general design is very similar to the Baja King's, especially on the front arms, the front bumper is from the underside. This provide a reinforcement on this chassis part.

The rest is only normal wear, like the rear tires spikes which are seriously worn. But the original motor pinion (18 teeth) is just good for the bin: the teeth became so thin that they seem sharp like knives. A few more runs and I think this pinion would have become bald. I had to change it and I replaced it with a brand new 20 tooth pinion.

Because after several runs, and especially because I drove other models, I found my Blackfoot to be slow. The most obvious was it straight line speed limit that it reached very soon. That is why I replaced it with a 20T pinion when I discovered the state of the original 18T.

Anyway, the balance for this model is very positive. Except the bodyshell (what a guess), it is very solid and doesn't require to be maintained. I never had the slightest bad surprise either switching it on or while running: the Blackfoot Xtreme can deal no matter what. Well, the way I drive it. In conclusion, it does correspond to the promises on the box: Xtreme is just the name. Of course, it can deal with much more powerful motors, but I am not one of those that like to destroy a model when landing several meters jumps.

A few photos

These are just a few shots, more are available on the gallery.
This is one of the very first runs of the Blackfoot. This one in particular that made me think about protecting the electronics.

The playground was very muddy (it rained just before): I had a great time running in these conditions and I had another great time cleaning the whole truck during over an hour 

So long Blackfoot Xtreme

Despite all my love for this model, I finally decided to sell it. This model is important for me as it is the one which made me renew with an ancient forgotten passion, the one that made me rediscover a brand. It also initiated my interest for vintage models, something I couldn't imagine back in 2007 (remember, that was still the Traxxas E-Maxx craze).

All my collection and all this website content were originated by this Blackfoot Xtreme: it survived to many runs (especially the first ones) before I progressively left it apart to focus on other models and especially vintage ones.

So long my dear Blackfoot Xtreme. I wish his new owner lives exciting moments with it and, who knows, may be he will share his passion with other fans too.

Top of page

First publication: april 14, 2008 Last modified: december 26, 2011

© 2005-2012 - Black Hole Sun